01.29.10

The Skinny on Skin Care

Posted in Uncategorized at 6:57 pm by Administrator

What Skin Needs

The best products any skin-care company can offer to fight wrinkles and aging include the following ingredients:

•Sunscreen is the superstar of all superstars in the anti-aging category; of course, it must be a broad-spectrum sunscreen product rated SPF 15 or greater. I know that sunscreen isn’t nearly as sexy or exciting as the latest antiwrinkle cream dressed up in slick packaging, but when applied correctly (meaning liberally, daily, and before your skin encounters any daylight, 365 days a year) it is your best defense against wrinkles, discolorations, loss of firmness, and dullness.

•Exfoliants can remove built-up layers of dead, rough, thickened, uneven surface skin cells that make skin look wrinkled and dry; for example, sun-damaged skin causes the outer layer of skin to become thick. Some exfoliants also have research showing they can increase collagen production and improve the structure of skin’s outer layer.

•Antioxidants reduce inflammation, repair DNA damage, restore the skin’s surface barrier, help defend against environmental stress, allow skin to build more collagen, and improve skin’s ability to heal. All antioxidants also effectively help fight sun damage. You still need sunscreen, but skin needs all the help it can get!

•Cell-communicating ingredients, at least in theory, can “tell” skin cells to behave in a normal (meaning younger and undamaged) manner, leading to healthier and more normal functioning skin cells.

•Skin-identical substances, substances that are the same as the natural components in skin that hold skin cells together and protect it, can replenish and restore the skin’s external barrier, making it soft and supple, diminishing and potentially eliminating dryness with repeated use, building collagen, and helping skin defend itself from environmental factors.

•Novel ingredients, at least some of them, can protect a skin cell’s membrane to keep it from being damaged by internal and external factors.

Abundant research makes it crystal clear that all of these ingredients are as good as it gets in the world of skin care to fight wrinkling and skin aging. These state-of-the-art ingredients, especially when combined in a cocktail approach, mixing an assortment of these elements into one product, are without question, the types of ingredients you need, regardless of the name on the label or the product category: lotion, cream, gel, serum, moisturizer, anti-aging, or antiwrinkle. If the product doesn´t contain these ingredients, then why bother?

The sticker price won’t help you. There are lots of expensive products that cheat your skin and lots of inexpensive products that generously serve up what your skin needs, and vice versa.

You don’t need an eye cream and don’t buy jar packaging. There is no research showing that eye-area skin needs something different from skin on the rest of your face. And do not buy any “anti-aging” product in jar packaging because if it does contain state-of-the-art ingredients they won’t remain stable once you’ve opened the jar and exposed the contents to air.

There Isn’t a “Best” Ingredient…
…there are just lots of great ones. All of the ingredients listed above—antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, and cell-communicating ingredients—are the leading elements that contribute to making a state-of-the-art moisturizer. And there are many brilliant formulations in stable packaging that include these substances. But, contrary to what cosmetics companies want you to believe about their products, there is no single miracle ingredient for skin. Month after month, new ingredients appear one after the other in the world of skin care, all claiming superiority over their predecessors. Even when there is research showing that the ingredient can be effective for skin, that doesn’t make it better or more essential than hundreds of other ingredients—it´s just another option, not a must have.

Think about it like your diet. Although broccoli or grapes may be incredibly healthy to eat, if you eat only those foods your health will suffer. Skin is a complex structural organ that requires many substances to function in a younger and healthier manner. And by that, I mean to function the way it did before it became damaged by the sun.

AHAs and BHA: Take Skin Beyond Smooth
What they do: For all skin types, it is extremely helpful to exfoliate the surface layers of skin. Sun-damaged skin causes the outer layer of skin to become abnormally thick. For those with blemish-prone skin, the outer layer of skin is genetically thicker. Whether you use a product with glycolic or lactic acids, these alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA, which is exceptional for normal to oily/combination skin) remove the outer layer of built-up dead skin cells, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface and smoothing the surface, thus eliminating some wrinkling. There also is a good deal of research showing that using a well-formulated AHA product can increase collagen production. AHAs in skin-care products are effective in concentrations ranging from 5% to 15%; salicylic acid is effective in 1% to 2% concentrations.

Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111-119; Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404-409; and Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573-577; Dermatologic Surgery, January 2008, pages 45-50; Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531-1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137-142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390-1395; Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50-53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, volume 175, issue 1, pages 76-82.)

Retinol: Vitamin A for Anti-Aging
What it does: Retinol is the term used for the entire vitamin A molecule. Applied to skin, retinol is a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient and an antioxidant. Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances. Retinol has been shown to increase the skin’s collagen production and glycosaminoglycan content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function. Although it is not the only ingredient to look for in an anti-aging product, it deserves strong consideration by anyone who wants to keep their skin in top shape through the years. In skin-care products, it is found in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinylaldehyde. In prescription-only skin-care products, it is in the form of retinoic acid (also called tretinoin).

Sources: Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606-612; Cosmetic Dermatology, supplement, Revisiting Retinol, January 2005, pages 1-20; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 799-804; Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162; Mechanisms of Ageing Development, July 2004, pages 465-473; and Journal of Dermatology, November 2001, pages 595-598.

Vitamin C: “C” the Difference it Makes
What it does: One of the most well-researched and beneficial vitamins you can apply topically is vitamin C. It has been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Vitamin C comes in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common. Other forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Sources: International Journal of Toxicology, volume 24, supplement 2, 2005, pages 51-111; Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691, and June 2003, pages 237-244; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 814-817; Nutrition Reviews, March 2005, pages 81-90; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, November-December 2004, pages 298-303; BMC Dermatology, September 2004, page 13; International Journal of Dermatology, August 2004, pages 604-607; and Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery, volume 5, issue 2m, March-April 2003, pages m145-m149.

Vitamin E: In a League of its Own
What it does: Vitamin E (technical name tocopherol) is considered an antioxidant superstar in its own right. This fat-soluble vitamin is available in various forms with eight biologically active components, such as alpha tocopherol and beta tocopherol, or combined in an ingredient called tocotrienols. Simply put, vitamin E in all of its forms works in several different ways to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage and to prevent collagen from being destroyed. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C. Vitamin E on an ingredient label can be tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol, and tocopheryl succinate.

Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Immunopathology and Pharmacology, July-September 2005, pages 497-502; Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691; International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, July 2005, pages 116-119; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, January-February 2005, pages 20-26; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2005, pages 304-307; Photochemistry and Photobiology, April 1993, pages 613-615; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2005, page 4.

Niacinamide: Vitamin B at its Best
What it does: Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the active component of vitamin B3. When applied topically, niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to address skin discolorations (often in tandem with other proven skin-lightening agents such as vitamin C and glucosamine) and to reduce acne. It definitely belongs on the A-list of great skin-care ingredients regardless of your skin-care concern.

Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, October 2003, page 681, and September 2000, pages 524-531; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 860-865; Experimental Dermatology, July 2005, pages 498-508; Journal of Radiation Research, December 2004, pages 491-495; and Journal of Dermatological Science, volume 31, 2003, pages 193-201.

Green and White Tea
What they do: Whether you drink green or white tea, both contain excellent antioxidants from the plant Camellia sinensis and both deserve your attention. There are four major antioxidant components of green and white tea, of which Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG) is the most abundant and biologically active. Green tea is found more commonly in cosmetics than white tea, but both work quite well to reduce inflammation, build collagen, and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. EGCG also is found in cosmetics and is probably a more potent stable way to get the antioxidant benefit on skin.

Sources: Histology and Histopathology, April 2008, pages 487-496; Journal of Medicinal Food, June 2007, pages 337-344; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2007, pages 48-56; Phytochemistry, September 2006, pages 1849-1855; and Journal of Dermatological Science, December 2005, pages 195-204.

Resveratrol
What it does: Like any antioxidant, resveratrol has incredible protective benefit for skin. In nature it is found in foods such as grapes, nuts, fruits, and red wine. When applied topically, resveratrol protects against sun damage, improves collagen synthesis, and reduces cell damage. It is a stable, potent antioxidant worth finding in a skin-care product. In addition, studies have shown that resveratrol inhibits tumor development.

Sources: Anticancer Research, September-October 2004, pages 2783–2840; Medicinal Chemistry, November 2005, pages 629–633; Molecular Nutrition and Food Research, May 2005, pages 405–430; Antioxidant Redox Signal, December 2001, pages 1041–1064; and Mutation Research, Genetic Toxicology and Environmental Mutagenesis, September 2001, pages 171–180).

Grape Seed
What it does: Grape seed has been shown to be a potent antioxidant that significantly reduces free-radical damage. Combining it with other antioxidants greatly enhances its efficacy. It also has wound-healing properties. Regardless of the type of grape, it has antioxidant potential. For fighting wrinkles, it is one of the superstars.

Sources: Phytotherapy Research, September 23, pages 1197-1204; Carcinogenesis, June 2009, pages 1008-1015; Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, June 2001, pages 187–200; and Toxicology, August 2000, pages 187–197; and Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, April 2000, pages 1076–1080).

Curcuminoids
What they do: Curcuminoids are various compounds derived from the spice turmeric. Turmeric is the major ingredient in curry powder, a spice used to flavor many types of food. The curcuminoids are the major active constituents of turmeric. Curcumin is but one of these components, and is chemically known as diferuloylmethane). Curcumin has potent anti-inflammatory properties, both internally and externally (applied to skin). It also has activity against tumor formation. It is capable of causing cancerous cells to die while preserving healthy cells. The curcuminoids also have potent antioxidant ability and work to suppress excess melanin production in the presence of sunlight. Curcuminoids are considered safe for use on skin. They gain anti-aging superstar status due to their multiple benefits in addressing the underlying factors (chronic inflammation, irritation, sun damage) that cause skin to look older and become less able to repair itself.

Sources: Toxicology Mechanisms and Methods, September 2009, pages 447–460; Cell Biology and Toxicology, March 2009, Epublication; Archives of Physiology and Biochemistry, April 2008, pages 127–149; Food Chemistry and Toxicology, August 2002, pages 1091–1097; Planta Medica, December 2001, pages 876–877;Japanese Journal of Cancer Research, April 1998, pages 361–370; and www.naturaldatabase.com

Soy Isoflavones/Extract (Genistein)
What they do: Soy and its components have an amazing amount of research showing them to be powerful antioxidants and beneficial for skin. Studies show that these derivatives inhibit environmental damage, reduce irritation, improve skin texture, build collagen, and fight sun damage. Genistein (a component of soy) benefits skin´s elasticity, strengthens the skin´s dermis, and prevents DNA damage. There is also research showing it improves the appearance of scars.

Sources: Journal of Medicinal Food, April 2009, pages 429-434; Burns, February 2009, pages 89-97; Carcinogenesis, August 2006, pages 1627-1635; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2005, pages 1049-1059; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 2002, pages 175-183; Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2002, pages 45-50; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2003, page 56; and Journal of Cosmetic Science, September-October 2004, pages 473-479).

Pomegranate
What it does: Pomegranate and its extracts have antioxidant and anticancer properties that, while not conclusively demonstrated on human skin, show promise in animal and in vitro studies. Topical application of products containing pomegranate may improve the appearance of wrinkled skin by reducing inflammation and forestalling further damage. Research also shows that an extract from pomegranate peel has an inhibitory effect on the collagen-depleting substance MMP-1.

Sources: Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, June 2009, pages S5-S9; International Journal of Cancer, January 2005, pages 423-433; Journal of Medicinal Food, Fall 2003, 157-161; Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, January 2002, pages 81-86, and pages 166-171; International Journal of Oncology, May 2002, pages 983-986; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

Ceramides
What they do: Ceramides make up about 20% of the skin´s intercellular matrix, the “glue” that holds skin cells together, helping skin maintain its appearance and protecting it. When the skin´s “matrix,” also known as the skin´s outer barrier, is impaired, whether from sun damage, a dry environment, or irritating skin-care product, ceramides decrease and leave the skin vulnerable. Replenishing the skin´s ceramide content is a powerful way to protect skin and help it act and look younger.

Sources: Journal of Lipid Research, September 2007; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, January 2006, pages 232-238; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1126-1136; and Experimental Dermatology, October 2005, pages 719-726.

Linoleic / Linolenic Acids / Phospholipids
What they do: These fatty acids replenish the skin´s intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to “tell” the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner. They also help reduce inflammation, believed to be a key factor in how the skin ages.

Sources: American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, October 2007, pages 1225-1231; Archives of Dermatological Research, July 1998, pages 375-381; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, March 1998, pages 56-58; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, May 1996, pages 1096-1101, and July 2001, pages 44-51; Seminars in Dermatology, June 1992, pages 169-175; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

ALL of this information I received from Cosmetics Cop dot com.

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01.07.10

Top Tens of 2010

Posted in Uncategorized at 9:07 pm by Administrator

I know 2010 has just begun, but I wanted to give everyone three top ten lists that I received from Paula Begoun, my skincare hero.  She reviews and rates products from drugstore brands to high-end, speciality products.  She’s done the research, and I pass on the information. 

Her websites are www.beautypedia.com and  www.paulaschoice.com.

10 Best Drugstore Skin Care Products

• Neutrogena One Step Gentle Cleanser ($7.49 for 5.2 ounces)

Notes: Very good gentle cleanser that feels silky and completely removes all makeup; often stocked with Neutrogena makeup, not their skin care.

• Olay Foaming Face Wash for Sensitive Skin ($4.49 for 6.78 ounces)

Notes: Very good fragrance-free water soluble cleanser for all skin types.

• Eurcerin Calming Body Wash Daily Shower Oil ($7.99 for 8.4 ounces)

Notes: An excellent moisturizing body wash for winter-dry skin or eczema. Fragrance-free.

• Olay Quench Body Lotion Active Hydration Formula w/ Green Tea ($9.99 for 11.8 ounces)

Notes: Hands-down, one of the best body lotions anywhere due to its exemplary formula. It doesn’t leave skin greasy, either. Make sure you purchase the Green Tea formula, as it is the most state-of-the-art among the Quench moisturizers.

• CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion ($12.99 for 12 ounces)

Notes: Another top body lotion owing to its sophisticated formula that’s fragrance-free and great for dry, sensitive skin.

• Alpha Hydrox Oil-Free Formula ($11.99 for 1.7 ounces)

Notes: A fragrance-free, lightweight, pH-correct AHA product with 10% glycolic acid.

• Olay Complete Ageless Skin Renewing UV Lotion SPF 20 ($24.99 for 2.5 ounces)

Notes: There are few state-of-the-art daytime moisturizers with sunscreen at the drugstore. Although pricey, this certainly qualifies as a brilliant formula that competes with considerably more expensive SPF-rated facial moisturizers from the department store.

• Physicians Formula Sun Shield for Faces Extra Sensitive Skin SPF 25 ($8.95 for 4 ounces)

Notes: A gentle, mineral-based sunscreen that’s also fragrance-free. Great for rosacea-affected skin.

• Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Night ($13.99 for 1.4 ounces)

Notes: A very good nighttime moisturizer with retinol and antioxidants. Also fragrance-free. And yes, this is still being made even though Neutrogena offers similar products on their Ageless line.

• Stridex Power Pads ($6.99 for 28 pads)

Notes: One of the only benzoyl peroxide/anti-acne products at the drugstore that doesn’t contain needless irritants.

10 Best Drugstore Makeup Products

• L’Oreal True Match Super Blendable Makeup SPF 17 ($10.95)

Notes: Beautiful liquid foundation with broad-spectrum sun protection and a great range of mostly neutral shades for fair to dark skin tones.

• L’Oreal True Match Super Blendable Powder ($10.95)

Notes: Everything a great pressed powder should be, at a very reasonable price plus beautiful shades

• Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Double Face Perfector ($7.09)

Notes: A long-wearing, crease-free liquid concealer on one end, subtle highlighter on the other. Ideal!

• Cover Girl TruBlend Liquid Makeup ($9.39)

Notes: One of CG’s best foundations without sunscreen, it looks amazingly skin-like and lasts.

• Revlon Cream Blush ($9.79)

Notes: An excellent cream-to-powder blush that gives skin a lit-from-within glow.

• Physicians Formula Matte Collection Quad Eyeshadow ($6.75)

Notes: Smartly-coordinated sets with a smooth texture, good color payoff, and true matte finish.

• Cover Girl Outlast Smoothwear All-Day Eyeliner ($6.99)

Notes: A very good eye pencil with impressive longevity. Doesn’t need sharpening.

• Maybelline Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil ($5.49)

Notes: No sharpening plus a smooth, soft application and flattering colors make this brow pencil a must-try.

• Cover Girl Lash Blast Mascara or Lash Blast Length ($8.99)

Notes: Lash Blast in the orange tube gives ample thickness and length, while the one in the yellow tube provides less thickness but makes lashes inordinately long. Both are impressive.

• Rimmel Lasting Finish Lipstick ($4.99)

Notes: An inexpensive creamy lipstick that provides rich color and a finish that’s not overly slippery. Great shades, too.

10 Best Drugstore Hair-Care Products

• Aveeno Nourish + Volumize Shampoo ($6.99 for 10.5 ounces)

Notes: Great shampoo that’s nearly identical to Aveeno’s Nourish + Moisture Shampoo. Both are good for normal to dry hair that’s slightly coarse, curly, or thick.

• Garnier Fructis Body Boost Fortifying Shampoo ($3.99 for 13 ounces)

Notes: Excellent shampoo for all hair types, but especially good for fine hair.

• JASON Natural Fragrance Free Daily Shampoo ($9.79 for 16 ounces)

Notes: Although this contains a fragrant plant extract, the scent is subtle and doesn’t change the fact that this is a very good gentle shampoo for all hair types.

• Garnier Sleek & Shine Leave-In Conditioning Cream ($3.99 for 10.2 ounces)

Notes: A standard, but good leave-in conditioner for dry hair that’s comparable to much costlier products from Kerastase (Garnier and Kerastatse are owned by L’Oreal).

• TRESemme Instant Heat Tamer Styling Spray ($4.75 for 8 ounces)

Notes: Good lightweight, spray-on conditioner for those with fine or thin hair.

• Pantene Nature Fusion Moisture Balance Conditioner ($4.99 for 12.6 ounces)

Notes: Every Pantene conditioner is great (and they’re all similar) but this one has a subtle scent that doesn’t overpower. Use sparingly on fine or thin hair, lavishly on thick, coarse hair.

• L’Oreal Vive Pro Nutri Gloss Conditioner, for Medium to Long Hair That’s Curly/Wavy ($4.99 for 13 ounces)

Notes: Ignore the long/curly/wavy hair claim; this is a great conditioner for normal to dry hair of any thickness.

• Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Anti-Humidity Hairspray, Ultra Strong ($3.99 for 8.25 ounces)

Notes: This won’t completely shield hair from humidity and its hold isn’t ultra strong, but it works great as a finishing spray for all hair types.

• Pantene Curl Defining Spray Gel, Extra Strong Hold ($4.99 for 6.5 ounces)

Notes: A well-formulated styling spray for all hair types. Alcohol-free and loaded with helpful conditioning agents. Benefits curly or straight hair, especially if it is fine or thin.

• Dove Frizz Control Therapy Taming Cream for Rebellious, Unmanageable Hair ($4.99 for 4 ounces)

Notes: A great styling/straightening cream that also works to tame frizzies and add shine. Versatile, but too thin for those with very thick or coarse hair, who’d do better with a silicone serum or pomade, of which there are plenty of good ones available.

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12.02.09

Winterizing your skin

Posted in Uncategorized at 4:18 pm by Administrator

In honor of the snow this morning in Dallas, I thought I’d share some tips about winterizing your skin.

Cold winter weather in any part of the world can take its toll on our skin, so it’s important to be prepared and adapt your skin-care routine accordingly, along with other tips I’ll share below.

Do you ever have dry patches?   When these appear, follow your nighttime skin-care routine as usual, but with one addition: before you apply your moisturizer and/or serum, apply a thin layer of olive, jojoba, or evening primrose oil to the driest areas, including around the eyes. You can also mix a teaspoon or so of one of these oils with a hydrating mask and leave on for as long as you like.  This should remedy the dry, flaky patches. In the morning, use your cleanser with a soft washcloth to gently remove the last remnants of visible flakes and proceed with your usual morning routine.

You may also want to apply your exfoliant less often when the flaking becomes more persistent, and consider running a humidifier in your home during the cold, dry winter months. That can make a world of difference during periods of cold, dry air outdoors and heated, recirculated dry air indoors.

One more thing that deserves mention: drinking extra water will not reduce or prevent dry, flaky skin. Drinking water is definitely important for the health of the body but that doesn’t translate to getting rid of dry skin. If drinking water were all it took to eliminate dry skin, no one would have dry skin! Attempting to over-drink is always accompanied by an almost immediate need to go to the bathroom, where the excess water is quickly eliminated. So even if the extra water could be delivered to skin cells it would never have the chance to get there.

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11.18.09

Head-to-Toe Slenderizing? Yes, please!

Posted in Uncategorized at 11:00 pm by Administrator

One of the most flattering tricks for using proportion to your advantage is to choose looks that are either “short over long” or “long over short.”  For example, a cropped jacket over a knee-length shift will give your waist definition while also providing the illusion of lengthening your bottom half.  Conversely, a long jacket with skinny pants or a tunic over a shorter pencil skirt that hits above or at the knee creates a long-over-short outfit with a top-to-bottom slimming effect.

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11.12.09

Are Eye Creams Really Necessary???

Posted in Uncategorized at 8:39 pm by Administrator

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Tackling the Topic of Toners and Irritating Ingredients

Posted in Uncategorized at 8:36 pm by Administrator

Toners help remove last traces of makeup, soothe skin and lightly moisturize. A toner SHOULD deliver protective antioxidants, skin identical and cell-communicating ingredients which is rare for this category. Basically, toners should restore skin, help remove last traces of makeup, are alcohol- and fragrance-free, and contain no unnecessary irritants such as menthol, peppermint, and citrus oils. They are great as an adjunct to a more thorough cleansing routine, especially post-workout or in hot/humid climates. Even more significantly they go beyond the basics by offering skin benefits you can see and feel.

Are they absolutely necessary? No. Your cleanser SHOULD (there’s that word again) do a good enough job of thoroughly cleansing the skin without a toner being necessary, but some of us have a hard time of letting go of this step. Do yourself a favor, read the ingredient list. If you’re going to go that extra mile, make sure that you’re doing something worthwhile for your skin and not something potentially irritating.

I cannot stress this enough, irritation and inflammation are bad for skin—really, really bad. We do many things to our skin in an effort to improve it yet often use an assortment of irritating skin-care products. Everyday assaults such as unprotected sun exposure, splashing the face with hot water, applying skin-care products that contain irritating ingredients, and on and on, generate an irritant or inflammatory effect. This results in the skin’s immune system becoming impaired, collagenase takes place (the breakdown of collagen), and the skin is stripped of its outer protective barrier.

For the overall health of your skin, anything you can do to treat it gently is a very good thing. Treating skin gently encourages normal collagen production, maintains a smooth and radiant surface, and helps skin protect itself from environmental stressors.

Aside from diligent sun protection, using gentle, non-irritating skin-care products is part of how you can achieve the best daily and long-term skin care results possible—so you can have the skin you’ve always wanted (Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, January 2004, pages 16-25; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, May 2004, pages 327-337; Cosmetics & Toiletries, Nov 2003, page 63; Global Cosmetics, Feb 2000, pages 46-49; and Contact Dermatitis, February 1995, pages 83-87).

With the goal being to eliminate anything that unnecessarily irritates and inflames skin, the following is a list of typical skin-care culprits that are not helpful in the least and are potentially damaging to your skin. The skin can react negatively to all of the following products, procedures, and ingredients.

Sensitive skin requires sensitivity. If you feel that you have sensitive skin, see the list below for things to avoid.

Avoid These Treatments and Products:
•Overly abrasive scrubs (such as those that contain aluminum oxide crystals, walnut shells, or pumice)
•Astringents containing irritating ingredients (alcohol and menthol being the prime offenders)
•Toners containing irritating ingredients (alcohol and menthol being the prime offenders)
•Scrub mitts
•Cold or hot water
•Steaming or icing the skin
•Facial masks containing irritating ingredients (watch out for fragrant essential oils and polyvinyl alcohol)
•Loofahs
•Bar soaps and bar cleansers (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, August 2002, pages 494-9; Skin Research and Technology, May 2001, pages 98-104; and Dermatology, March 1997, pages 258–262)

Irritating Ingredients to Avoid
(These are of greatest concern when they appear in the beginning of an ingredient list.)
•Alcohol or SD alcohol followed by a number (Exceptions: Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are standard, benign, waxlike cosmetic thickening agents and are completely nonirritating and safe to use; SD alcohols are not considered a problem when they are used in minute amounts, as is the case with some ingredient mixtures.)
•Ammonia
•Arnica
•Balm mint
•Balsam
•Benzalkonium chloride (if it is one of the main ingredients)
•Benzyl Alcohol (if it is one of the main ingredients)
•Bergamot
•Camphor
•Cinnamon
•Citrus juices and oils
•Clove
•Clover blossom
•Coriander
•Cornstarch
•Essential Oils
•Eucalyptus
•Eugenol
•Fennel
•Fennel oil
•Fir needle
•Fragrance (may be listed as “Parfum”)
•Geranium
•Grapefruit
•Horsetail
•Lavender
•Lemon
•Lemongrass
•Lime
•Linalool
•Marjoram
•Melissa (lemon balm)
•Menthol, Menthyl Acetate, and Menthyl PCA
•Mint
•Oak bark
•Orange
•Papaya
•Peppermint
•Phenol
•Sandalwood oil
•Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
•Sodium lauryl sulfate
•TEA-lauryl sulfate
•Thyme
•Wintergreen
•Witch hazel
•Ylang-ylang

Ingredients like camphor, menthol, mint, alcohol, and phenol are sometimes recommended because they are a type of anti-itch ingredient known as counter-irritants. The theory works like this: When your skin itches, the nerve endings are sending messages begging you to scratch. If you place these irritating ingredients over the area that itches, the nerve hears the irritation message louder than it hears the itch message and interprets this as a reason to stop itching. That reasoning is fine if minor, sporadic, occasional itching is your problem. If it is not and those ingredients are present in skin-care products meant for everyday use, they introduce a constant, irritating insult to the skin and cause dryness, rashes, increased oil production, redness, and breakouts. None of those side effects are attractive.

Skin doesn’t have to hurt, tingle, or be stimulated (even a little) to be clean. In fact, a simple indicator of irritation is if the skin tingles, it is being irritated, not cleaned. The major rule for all skin types is if a product or procedure irritates the skin, don’t use it again.

If it tingles it must be working, right? WRONG! Ingredients that make your skin tingle, like alcohol, menthol, peppermint, eucalyptus, and lemon, show up in countless acne products yet there is no research showing they have benefit for any skin type. These ingredients are irritating to skin, and only make matters worse! Irritating the skin triggers stress-sensing nerve endings in the pore, which in turn stimulate an increase in oil production (Sources: Archives of Dermatological Research, July 2008, pages 311-316; Clinical Dermatology, September-October 2004, pages 360-366; Dermatology, January 2003, pages 17-23; Medical Electron Microscopy, March 2001, pages 29-40).

Myth: A cooling or tingling sensation is a sign that your skin-care product is really working.

Fact: This common myth couldn’t be further from the truth. That familiar tingling sensation is actually just your skin responding to irritation, resulting in inflammation. Products that produce that sensation can actually damage your skin’s healing process, make scarring worse, cause collagen and elastin to break down, and increase the growth of bacteria that cause pimples. Ingredients such as menthol, peppermint, camphor, and mint are counter-irritants (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, May 1996, pages 245-248; Code of Federal Regulations Title 21-Food and Drugs, revised April 1, 2001, CITE: 21CFR310.545, www.fda.gov; and www.naturaldatabase.com). Counter-irritants are used to induce local inflammation in an effort to reduce inflammation in deeper or adjacent tissues. In other words, they substitute one kind of inflammation for another, which is never good for skin. Irritation or inflammation, no matter what causes it or how it happens, impairs the skin’s immune and healing response (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, November -December 2000, pages 358-371). And although your skin may not show it or doesn’t react in an irritated fashion, if you apply irritants to your skin the damage is still taking place and is ongoing, so it adds up over time (Source: Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227-237).

Exceptions to the rule
Because of the long-term benefits certain types of ingredients can provide skin, tolerating a little initial, though not long-term or serious, irritation may be necessary. For example, some stinging or tingling may occur when you initially begin to use a pH-correct alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid product for exfoliation, a benzoyl peroxide product to battle blemishes, topical Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac azelaic acid, or Differin for either acne or wrinkles, or use Metrogel, Metrocream, or Metrolotion for rosacea. You may need to reduce frequency of application to once a day or every other day, or reduce how much you use at any one time. If the irritation persists for more than a few weeks or worsens with repeated use, then you should stop using it. For example, personally, my skin cannot tolerate Renova or Retin-A but I have no problem using a well-formulated beta hydroxy acid which has improved the texture of my skin immeasurably.

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Wrinkles, wrinkles, and more wrinkles.

Posted in Uncategorized at 8:28 pm by Administrator

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11.04.09

Comfort in High Heels

Posted in Uncategorized at 11:00 pm by Administrator

Sound like an oxymoron to you?  I used to think the same way.  Even though high-heeled shoes can put seven times your body weight onto the balls of your feet, most women wouldn’t dream of giving them up.  Here’s a few ideas for finding the most comfortable pair. 

Low or kitten heels (1 to 2 inches high) are your most comfortable options.  At any height, the thicker the heels, the more support and comfort they will give you.  Spindly ones pitch you forward, causing you to balance all your weight on the balls of your feet. 

Feel inside the shoes for padding.  If padding isn’t built in, invest in insert cushions (or ask a salesperson, since sometimes stores can provide cushions at no extra charge), but be sure the shoes still fit once you put them in.  Your other option is to buy a pair in a larger size and wear it with full-foot orthotic inserts or gel pads. 

Choose shoes made of soft, breathable natural materials, such as napa leather or goatskin.  Synthetics can be eco-friendly (check up on the company and its claims), but they can make your feet sweat if plastic-based and hard canvases will chafe.  If your boots are stiff, wear them for one or two hours at a time with heavy socks until they are comfortable.  Shop for shoes later in the day, when feet tend to be swollen.  What feels good at 10 a.m. might feel tight at 4 p.m.

There are a few things a cobbler can do to make your shoes more comfortable.  Shoes made of leather can be stretched – including the bodies, straps and toe boxes.  Extra cushioning can be added in the form of very thin rubber soles on the outside of the shoes or a pad inside beneath the insoles of most shoes, no matter their material.  Some heels can also be lowered about 1/2 inch, depending on the shoe angle.

In order to buy the right fit, you need to try different sizes.  Not all size-8 shoes fit the same, even from one designer. 

Another good tip is to think ahead when shopping.  I often bring along thick socks and a pair of trouser socks when shoe shopping.  If you normally wear inserts, make sure to a buy a size that works with the extra material. 

Now get out there and buy some fabulous shoes!

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11.02.09

The Obsession of Most Women

Posted in Uncategorized at 10:46 pm by Administrator

If you guessed “shoes”, then you’ve just won a million dollars!  Just kidding!  If I had a million dollars, I’d probably go out and shop for more shoes.  Why, you ask?  Because shoes are a wonderful way to express your individuality! 

The right shoes can perform small miracles for your entire look.  And that is why I’m dedicating this week’s blogs to shoes.  *insert triumphant music*

We all have our particular weaknesses when it comes to footwear: Perhaps your closet is filled with pair upon pair of black boots?  Red heels?  Adorable flats?  Slinky, strappy sandals?  Hey, it happens.  After all, shoes are the most seductive of accessories that can make us feel totally sexy, strong and wildly feminine.  Then there are the more basic types of shoes.  And while unadorned flat boots might not seem as exciting as bejeweled platforms, you’ll probably wear the former far more often.  With this in mind, be as choosy with your everyday shoes as you are with your standouts, and you’ll always be walking tall. 

While we’re on the subject of walking tall, let’s talk about heels.  A medium height (2 inches) flatters almost everyone.  The most feminine type is slim, but the shape of the heel should match your body.  For instance, skinny stilettos exaggerate the weight of a heavy frame, so thicker, stacked heels would be a better option.

The vamp, or top part of the shoe, is the most slimming if cut low toward the toe in a V or U shape.  High-vamp closed-throat shoes, when worn with skirts, can make legs look shorter.  High-cut shoes look best with pants (skinny, for an edgy look), matching tights, or, if you dare (and are blessed with long, thin legs), miniskirts.

A tapered toe provides the slimmest look, but if you find pointy toes too uncomfortable, opt for oval shapes.

T-straps, ankle straps and wide straps over the instep will all draw attention to your feet.  T-straps can elongate the legs if their color matches your skin tone; dark or embellished  ankle straps usually shorten the appearance of legs.

With evening wear it’s OK for your shoes to match your outfit exactly.  With black, you can have a little fun with colorful or even patterned shoes.  Metallics work almost as a neutral and can be worn day or night.  With lighter-colored outfits, black shoes can seem too heavy and make legs appear shorter.  White shoes can be jarring and break up the silhouette of your leg, so opt for softer ivories or creams instead.  A shoe that matches your skin tone will make your legs look longer.  If you’re the absent of color as I am, have fun finding a shoe that matches your skin tone.  I know I’ll appreciate the lack of sun worshipping I do when I’m 80.

So which shoes are right for you?  If you’re on the petite side, too-high heels can make you look off-balance.  If you’re wearing flats, make sure they have a little lift.  Match the tone of your shoes to your tights and skirt to elongate your legs. 

If you have thick ankles or heavy calves, wear the highest heels that you are comfortable in, but make sure they’re not too spindly.  Stacked heels or wedges are good options.  Tall boots are also a smart choice.  Midcalf boots often hit at the thickest part of the calf, so avoid these styles.  Also, avoid square-toe styles, which may look too boxy. 

I hope these simple pointers will put you several steps ahead on the road to finding footwear that complements you from the ground up. 

These boots are made for walkin…….

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